Made up of 48 neighborhoods, or barrios, Buenos Aires provides visitors with an eclectic mix of the historic and the ultra-modern. One of the most historic barrios is San Telmo, which features cobblestone streets, ancient buildings with colorful facades, and farolas, or candle street lighting. Famous for its eclectic galleries and boutiques, San Telmo is also home to numerous tango-inflected bars, cafes, and poet’s hangouts.
Plaza Dorrego, where revolutionaries declared Argentine independence in 1816, is the setting for a major antique market held every Sunday. Around the tree-studded plaza are various buildings with colonial architecture intact. The Mercado San Telmo, housed in a half-open structure, features sellers of various wares and is an ideal spot to sip a coffee and people-watch. Another highlight is the Museo de Arte Moderno (MAMBA), which inhabits an old, meticulously renovated tobacco factory.
For many visitors, simply wandering around and taking in the residential ambiance is a highlight. San Telmo once housed the most wealthy families in Buenos Aires. However, following a horrific yellow fever outbreak in 1877, many moved to more modern abodes in newly developed neighborhoods north of the city center, and the district fell into disrepair. In recent decades, the area has undergone gentrification. As evening falls, the ornamental tops of many buildings shine a burnished gold, reflecting the setting sun.
